2017 - 2021 Ford f250 6.7L Torque Specs
2017 f250 6.7L Complete Torque Specs List
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Ford F250 6.7L Repair Information
Ford F250 6.7L Engine Repair Information
Here you can find information regarding the assembly of the Ford 6.7L Modular engine. In this guide we will start from the inside of the engine including the crankshaft, connecting rods, and piston ring installation and then move outwards all the way to the pulley belt system. Along the way correct procedures and torque specs will be given to aid in the assembly of the engine. Feel free to start from the beggining and work your way outwards or skip ahead to your current position in the engine for what you may need.
Crankshaft Main Caps Installation
The Ford 6.7L block uses a main cap support brace as apart of the bearing surfaces and caps. This brace gets bolted down onto the crankshaft using a series of 4 bolt row. Before installing the support brace you should inspect all bearing surfaces and replace as needed. When installing the new bearings or old bearings be sure that the backside of both the bearing and the bearing race are dry and clean. If everything is good you can place the bearings into their slots and then lube the contact surfaces with some lithium grease and place the crankshaft down onto the bearings. Do the same to the support brace side bearings and then you can begin to put the brace on the crank and torque down the bolts. The bolts get tightened in 3 different steps. Starting with the inwards main bolts you can start by tightening all of the bolts to 59 ft-lbs. Once tightened you can move to the 10 most inward bolts and tighten them to 118 ft-lbs. Finally all of the non side bolts get a 90 degree turn. Once completed you can tighten the side bolt to 30 ft-lbs and then a 90 degree turn.
Main Cap59 ft-lbs | 118 ft-lbs | 90°
Main Cap Side Bolt30 ft-lbs | 90°
Camshaft Installation
The Ford 6.7L uses a OHV pushrod system that includes the camshaft being located in the middle of the engine. Before installing the camshaft be sure to check the cam bearings for wear and replace accordinly. To see more on how to replace camshaft bearings check out this detailed page. If all the bearings are good or replaced you can then lube them up and slowly insert the camshaft into the engine going from the front to the back. With the camshaft in align the camshaft gear with the crank gear markings. There are 2 thrust plate bolts that hold the camshaft from coming out. These bolts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.
Ford F250 Camshaft Thrust Bolts Torque: 18 ft-lbs
Piston and Connecting Rod Installation
Ford F250 Connecting Rod Torque Specs : 33 ft-lbs | 90°
To install the pistons and connecting rods you must first install the piston rings into each piston. Be careful not to stretch the rings or break them during installation. Make sure to put the correct rings in the correct positions, this can be determined by looking at the instructions given with the new rings. Each ring manufacturer is different so be sure to check for your specific rings. Once the rings have been installed you can now fit the connecting rod bearings into the end caps and lube them up with oil or lithium grease. The piston can now be lowered into the cylinder, make sure the dot or mark is facing the front of the engine and that you don't scratch the cylinder. Once installed you can match the connecting rod caps with the correct rods and start to torque the connecting rod bolts to 33 ft-lbs during the first stage and then to 50 ft-lbs for the second stage. After all are done rotate the crank to ensure all pistons move smoothly in and out of their cylinders.
Lifter Installation
The Ford 6.7L has 32 valves which are controlled by a series of lifters that push up on pushrods and rocker arms. These lifters are installed into the engine block before
the cylinder head gets installed and should be soaked in engine oil prior to installation. They can be dropped into place and then aligned with the lifter guides. The guides
should be installed evenly and then tightened down to ensure the lifters do not fall out when installing the cylinder head and pushrods.
The first thing you must do when installing cylinder heads is to ensure both the block and head surfaces are
completely clean from dust, oil, and any debris. The next thing you must do is set the pistons to their correct
locations, typically this means putting the #1 piston to TDC or Top Dead Center. Once everything is ready you
can install the head gasket onto the engine block by using the alignment pins to place it properly.
Something I usually do is spray down the head gasket with some engine copper spray from permatex which you can
find here, this ensures that any gaps that could be present between the 2 surfaces gets filled with the
spray. It
also helps to transfer heat between the 2 metals. With the gasket now in place you can set the cylinder head onto
the gasket and block, if needed have someone assist with this process as the head can be heavy
and you don't want to scratch anything or drop it! Once the head has been placed you will want to start
installing the head bolts to make sure it doesn't move. Be sure to buy new head bolts as many manufacturers
use TTY or Torque to Yield head bolts meaning they stretch during torqueing and cannot be used twice. Also make
sure to lubricate the bolts in clean engine oil before installing them into the head.
Once all the head bolts have been installed and finger tightened you can start the torqueing process, almost all
head bolts have a multi-step process for torqueing. The 6.7L has a 4 stage process and starts off with 15 ft-lbs and
then requires you to loosen them all a full turn. From here you can torque it back to 15 ft-lbs and then move to 36 ft-lbs and finally three 90 degree turns.
Be sure to follow the proper order for tighteneing the bolts and that you hit each bolt during each stage.
Typically head bolt torque sequences start from the middle and works cross ways outwards. This means that you will
start from the middle 2 bolts and then go out one and move to each side with each bolt in a x or cross motion. With all
head bolts torqued down you are good to move onto the rocker arms.
With the cylinder head torqued down into place you can begin to install the pushrods and rocker arms into the engine. The pushrods just slide into place with the copper end on the top, be sure they
fall properly into the lifters down below. With the pushrods in place you can put the rocker arms onto them and the top of the valves.
The rocker arms are fastened down with bolts that should be torqued to
10 ft-lbs. Be sure that the engine is at TDC before tightening down the rocker arm bolts to prevent valve damage. After the rockers
you can install the glowplugs and hand tighten them and then move to the injectors and torque them in a 2 step process. The first
being 22 ft-lbs and then a 90 degree turn. Once everything has been tightened down turn over the motor to ensure everything operates smoothly.
The timing cover on the 6.7L is rather simple but is a very important component that keeps the oil inside the
engine rather than leaking out onto the ground. For this reason I recommend using a new
gasket along with some silicone sealant to ensure the cover does it's job. Another important thing about the
timing cover is that it holds the crankshaft seal into place. Be sure to check out your seal
for any defects and or cracks. If your seal looks to be in good condition then you can reuse it without a
problem as long as you coat it with some clean engine oil before installing the cover. To prepare
the cover for installation you should clean both the cover's surface as well as the engine blocks surface. Next
you can install the new gasket onto the cover and follow it up with some silicone sealant.
I always use permatex's ultra black silicone sealant as it has an advance formula to resist engine oil. Once the
gasket and silicone has been placed onto the cover you can carefully place it onto the block
and start to install the cover bolts. If you used sealant be sure to follow the instructions included with the
product for the best results! The front cover bolts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.
When installing the oil pump be sure to use the proper sealant around the pump base to ensure that oil pressure
doesn't drop due to leakage. After preparing the contact surfaces carefully
install the oil pump gear and dampener onto the timing cover after coating it properly in oil.
With the dampener in you can then install the pump cover onto the timing cover and tighten down the bolts in
a cross pattern to 8 ft-lbs. From here you can move to installing the timing cover onto the engine which is covered
in a different portion of this page. With the timing cover on the engine we can then take the outer pump seal and install
it onto the timing cover around the crankshafts shaft. Be sure to use proper tools when installing the seal as a leak could
become catastrophic to the engine. The next portion of the oil pump on this engine is the HPOP or high pressure oil pump. This
part of the pump is on the upper part of the engine.
Much like the timing cover on the 6.7L the oil pan plays an important role in keeping the engine oil inside the
engine. For this reason I recommend using a new gasket as well as some silicone sealant
during installation. Using the same technique as before with the cover you clean the surfaces of both the oil
pan and the engine block and then install the new gasket onto the block and then follow
it up with some silicone sealant. Be sure to follow your sealants instructions to ensure you get the best seal
from your application. The oil pan bolts torque to 8 ft-lbs in a cross
pattern design for the lower pan set and 18 ft-lbs for the upper pan set.
Along with the pan is the oil pan drain plug, this gets removed and reinstalled quite frequently and can be
torqued down to 20 ft-lbs.
The valve cover installation on this engine is a bit more difficult than other engines. On this engine there are 2 parts
that make up the entire valve cover which are split into lower and upper. The lower cover should be installed after putting together
the rocker arms and injectors. With them installed you can place the lower valve cover into place using a new gasket on the bottom of it
and torque it down to 10 ft-lbs. From here you can now install your fuel rail pipes which go the full length of the head. These have a few
side bolts which should be tightened down to 23 ft-lbs. Now you can install the little fuel pipes which go from the rail to the injectors.
These need to be tightened to 8 ft-lbs and then a 60 degree turn. Once you have them tightened down you can move to the upper valve cover and
torque it to 8 ft-lbs.
When installing the intake manifold you want to make sure you have all the surfaces as well as intake holes
cleaned out before placing the manifold into position. Once cleaned you can then place
the intake manifold gaskets onto the alignment pins on the manifold itself and then use some silicon
sealant to ensure that the gaskets seat properly and nothing leaks out. Once ready you can lower the intake manifold onto the
engine and begin tightening the bolts to 8 ft-lbs. When installing the intake you can start to place the external fuel rail into place and
put in the new banjo bolts with new copper or steel washers. These banjo bolts get tightened down to 35 ft-lbs or 18 ft-lbs depending on which type
of washer it uses. You can also install the fuel filter and torque it down to 20 ft-lbs. Moving to the turbo there is a plastic grommet
that should be installed on the oil return tubes before placing the turbo assembly down onto the engine. Be sure not to forget the return pipe and
grommets or it will leak. If all is good you can install the turbo pedestal down onto the engine and tighten it to 45 ft-lbs and then install the turbos
and tighten it to the pedestal at 148 ft-lbs. With the turbo in place you can tighten up the down pipe which goes from the turbo assembly to the exhaust
manifolds. Where it connects to the turbos gets tightened to 18 ft-lbs and then the nuts which holds the piping to the manifolds are 23 ft-lbs. Finally the
oil supply piping has a couple banjo bolts which connects to the engine and turbo. These banjos get tightened to 28 ft-lbs and the standoff fitting gets tightened
to 35 ft-lbs.
The exhaust manifold can be installed by cleaning the surface areas on both the head an the manifold itself and
then by using the exhaust manifold gasket and putting it in place. Once the gasket is in
location you can put the manifold onto the heads and begin to torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs. I always use some
copper spray from permatex on the exhaust manifold gaskets to ensure I do not end up with
any exhaust leaks once done. The exhaust system also consists of a back pressure tube which includes the assembly bolts
as well as a sensor. The assembly bolts should be tightened to 20 ft-lbs while the sensor and its mount can be tightened to 12 ft-lbs.
The water pump can be installed by using a new gasket and if desired some silicone sealant to aid it. Once
prepared the pump can be moved into placed and the bolts should be torqued to 23 ft-lbs.
The water pump pulley can be torqued to the water pump itself with 23 ft-lbs as well.
Most of what is left on the engine is just place and tighten objects such as the belt pulleys, belt tensioner,
crankshaft pulley, and motor mounts. If the items have a gasket and hold either
oil or coolant inside the engine then feel free to add some sealant along with the gasket. Always be sure to
inspect your gaskets and replace them if there is any deteriation or flaws with them. For the
belt system the crank shaft pulley bolts get torqued to 50 ft-lbs and then an additional 90 degree turn. The belt
tensioner can be torqued to 18 ft-lbs and the idler pulley can both be torqued down to 35 ft-lbs. When installing be sure they
both turn smoothly and if they do not then replace them with new ones as the bearings can go bad.
As for the motor mounts there is a series of nuts which are used to tighten down the engine to the vehicle frame. These nuts should be
tightened down to 83 ft-lbs in order for them to stay tight through the engine and road vibrations. The alternator mounts can be
tightened down to 35 ft-lbs and the power steering pump bolts can be tightened to 18 ft-lbs.
Cylinder Head Installation
Ford F250 Cylinder Head Torque Specs : 15 ft-lbs | 36 ft-lbs + 90° + 90° + 90°
Pushrod and Rocker Arms Installation
With the cylinder head torqued down into place you can begin to install the pushrods and rocker arms into the engine. The pushrods just slide into place with the copper end on the top, be sure they
fall properly into the lifters down below. With the pushrods in place you can put the rocker arms onto them and the top of the valves.
The rocker arms are fastened down with bolts that should be torqued to
10 ft-lbs. Be sure that the engine is at TDC before tightening down the rocker arm bolts to prevent valve damage. After the rockers
you can install the glowplugs and hand tighten them and then move to the injectors and torque them in a 2 step process. The first
being 22 ft-lbs and then a 90 degree turn. Once everything has been tightened down turn over the motor to ensure everything operates smoothly.
Ford F250 Rocker Arm Torque Spec: 10 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Injectors Torque Spec: 22 ft-lbs | 90°
Ford F250 Oil Rail Torque Spec: 8 ft-lbs
Timing Cover Installation
Ford F250 Timing Cover Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Oil Pump Installation
Ford F250 Oil Pump Housing Bolts Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs
F250 Oil Pump Pickup Tube Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs
Oil Pan Installation
Ford F250 Lower Oil Pan Bolts Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Upper Oil Pan Bolts Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Oil Drain Plug Torque Specs : 20 ft-lbs
Valve Covers Installation
Ford F250 Lower Valve Cover Torque Specs : 10 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Fuel Rail Torque Specs : 23 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Little Fuel Tubes Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs + 60°
Ford F250 Upper Valve Cover Torque Specs : 8 ft-lbs
Intake Manifold and Turbocharger Installation
Ford F250 Intake Manifold Torque Spec : 8 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Fuel Banjo Bolts Torque Spec (Copper): 35 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Fuel Banjo Bolts Torque Spec (Steel): 35 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Fuel Filter Torque Spec : 20 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Pedestal Bolts to Engine Torque Specs : 45 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Turbo to Pedestal Bolts Torque Specs : 148 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Exhaust Down Pipe to Manifolds Torque Spec : 23 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Turbo Exhaust Inlet Pipes Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Turbo Oil Supply Banjos Torque Specs : 28 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Turbo Oil Supply Standoff Fittings Torque Specs : 35 ft-lbs
Exhaust Manifold Installation
Ford F250 Exhaust Manifold Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Exhaust Back Pressure Mount Torque Specs : 20 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Torque Specs : 12 ft-lbs
Water Pump and Thermostat Installation
Ford F250 Water Pump Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Water Pump Pulley Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Front Dress and Pulley belt Installation
Ford F250 Crankshaft Pulley Torque Specs : 50 ft-lbs + 90°
Ford F250 Idler Pulley Torque Specs : 35 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Belt Tensioner Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Motor Mount Nuts Torque Spec : 83 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Crossmember to Frame Torque Specs : 66 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Alternator Mounts Torque Spec : 35 ft-lbs
Ford F250 Power Steering Pump Torque Specs : 18 ft-lbs
| Crankshaft and Camshaft Torque Specs | |
|---|---|
| Crankshaft Main Caps Torque spec | 120 ft-lbs | 190 ft-lbs |
| Camshaft Thrust Bolts Torque Specs | 23 ft-lbs |
| Connecting Rod Bolt Torque Specs | 33 ft-lbs | 50 ft-lbs |
| Rocker Arms Torque Specs | 20 ft-lbs |
| Cylinder Head Torque Specs | |
| Cylinder Head Torque Specs | 65 ft-lbs | 85 ft-lbs | 95 ft-lbs |
| Valve Cover Torque specs | 8 ft-lbs |
| Exhaust Manifold Bolts Torque specs | 28 ft-lbs |
| Exhaust Back Pressure Mounting Bolts Torque Spec | 22 ft-lbs |
| Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor Torque spec | 8 ft-lbs |
| Bottom End Torque's | |
| Timing Cover Torque Specs | 18 ft-lbs |
| Flexplate/Flywheel Torque Spec | 69 ft-lbs |
| Intake and Turbocharger | |
| Intake Plenums Torque Specs | 8 ft-lbs |
| Exhaust Inlet Pipes V-Clamp Torque Specs | 9 ft-lbs |
| Turbocharger Mounting Bolts Torque Spec | 28 ft-lbs |
| Turbo Oil Supply Tube Torque Spec | 18 ft-lbs |
| Turbocharger EGR Tube Torque Spec | 20 ft-lbs |
| Turbo Pedestal Bolts Torque Spec | 23 ft-lbs |
| Turbocharger Down Exhaust Pipe Torque Spec | 30 ft-lbs |
| Oil Pump Torques | |
| Oil Pump Housing Torque Specs | 8 ft-lbs |
| Oil Pump Pickup Tube Torque Specs | 10 ft-lbs |
| High Pressure Oil Pump Mount Torque Specs | 18 ft-lbs |
| High Pressure Pump Cover Torque Spec | 8 ft-lbs |
| High Pressure Pump Discharge Tube Torque Spec | 8 ft-lbs |
| Oil Pan Bolts Torque Specs | 10 ft-lbs |
| Oil Pan Drain Plug Torque Spec | 32 ft-lbs |
| Water Pump & Pulley Torque Specs | |
| Water Pump Torque Specs | 18 ft-lbs |
| Water Pump Pulley Torque Specs | 23 ft-lbs |
| Crankshaft Pulley Alternator Bolts Torque Spec | 35 ft-lbs |
| Belt Tensioner Torque Spec | 18 ft-lbs |
| Belt Idler Pulley Torque Spec | 35 ft-lbs |
| Motor Mount Nuts Torque Spec | 83 ft-lbs |
| Alternator Mounts Torque Spec | 35 ft-lbs |
| Power Steering Pump Torque Spec | 18 ft-lbs |